24 December 2009

street shots in kolkata - calcutta - kalkutta


early morning getting started


early morning getting started


chicken market


softening the intestines


"cleaning"


spices


early morning getting started


i love a "masala tea"


water bag made out of goat leather


waiting for first customer


sunday morning: cricket in the park


sunday morning: cricket in the park


bathroom


tourist attraction


seems that somebody hates me ...



my dinner

05 December 2009

Butwal to Gorakhpur and Varanasi – a helpful accident and other stories (mit uebersetzung)

The illegal boarder crossing from Nepal to India with my motorbike was easier than expected. If you bring a motorbike from India to Nepal you have to pay road tax. When I entered they told me the maximum stay for my bike was 30 days. In Kathmandu I would be able to extend the time. However in Kathmandu it was not possible. So I had 2 options: leaving the country within 30 days or staying illegal. Of course I took option 2. Policemen in the countryside of Nepal do not control these documents anyhow. Only about the boarder crossing I worried. So when I arrived at the boarder my documents included some “bakshish” (money) which my friends thought it was suitable to “convince” the policeman that everything is all right with the documents. When I arrived there a little painful coincident helped me to cross without any check: A rickshaw driver drove from the side into my bike and caused me to stop. When I turned to see what if the back was fine another rickshaw driver drove over my foot. It was more surprise than pain, but I scolded to him that he should watch his path. He didn’t apologize but tried to explain me that I should not stop my bike on the middle of the road. So we started a discussion and the policemen came and apologized to me for the shouting rickshaw man. They sent the rickshaw driver and me on our way to open the road for the other passengers. So I just went to the immigration office and got my exit stamp. :o))

Die illegale Grenzueberquerung mit dem Motorrad zwischen Nepal und Indien war einfacher als erwartet. Wenn du ein Motorrad von Indien nach Nepal bringst musst du fuer die Dauer des Aufenthaltes Strassensteuer zahlen. Als ich einreiste war es maximal moeglich die Steuern fuer 30 Tage zu zahlen. Man sagte mir dass ich das Dokument in Kathmandu verlaengern koennte. In Kathmandu sagte man mir das sei nicht moeglich und ich muesse mit meinem Motorrad spaetestens nach 30 Tagen ueber die Grenze. Also hatte ich zwei Optionen: Das Land nach 30 Tagen zu verlassen oder illegal zu bleiben. Natuerlich habe ich mich fuer die zweite Option entschieden. Polizisten auf dem Land in Nepal kontrollieren diese Dokumente sowieso nicht. In der Regel reicht ein Wimpernschlag mit blauen Augen vollkommen aus. ;-) Ich machte mir nur Sorgen ueber die Grenzueberquerung. Als ich an der Grenze ankam waren meine Dokumente mit etwas Bakschisch angereichert. Meine Freunde meinten es waere ausreichend um die Polizisten zu ueberzeugen dass mit dem Dokument alles in Ordnung sei. Als ich jedoch an der Grenze ankam half mir ein kleiner etwas schmerzhafter Zufall dass ich ueberhaupt nicht ueberprueft wurde. Ein Rickscha Fahrer fuhr gegen meine Tasche. Als ich haltenblieb umzu ueberprufen ob noch alles in Ordnung war fuhr eine andere Rikscha ueber meinen Fuss. Es war mehr Schock als schmerzhaft und so maulte ich zu ihm dass er auf seinen Weg achten solle. Er entschuldigte sich nicht sondern erklaerte mir dass ich nicht mitten auf dem Weg anhalten solle. Das war zu viel und so verfielen wir in einen Streit. Der Polizist kam, entschuldigte sich bei mir fuer den schreienden Rickschafahrer und bat uns beide weiter zu fahren um die Strasse freizugeben. Also ging ich nur ins „immigration office“ und liess mir den Ausreisestempel geben. :o))

Many western women would be thankful for a man from the area between Ghorakpur and Varanasi. Why? They sit down when they pee. What the western women perhaps would not like so much is that these guys sit wherever they feel like it. I saw countless men sitting at the side of the road and grapping into their skirt to get their “little friend” out. They wear this kind of skirt which is somehow wrapped around the legs. You can see in my last blog pics. I am not sure why the style is like this. It could be in wintertime to avoid the cold coming in or perhaps to prevent flies coming in. It is surely not to avoid “little friend” looking out unexpectedly because I have seen some during my drive…

Viele westliche Frauen waeren dankbar fuer einen Mann aus der Gegend zwischen Gorakhpur und Varanasi. Warum? Diese Jungs setzen sich hin zum pinkeln. Was die Frauen moeglicherweise nicht moegen wuerden ist die Tatsache, dass sie sich ueberall hinsetzen wenn es Ihnen gerade danach ist. Ich sah unzaehlige Maenner am Strassenrand sitzen und in ihrem Wickelrock nach ihrem „besten Freund““ fischen. Sie tragen eine Art Wickelrock, der zwischen den Beinen durchgewickelt und hinten im Bund befestigt wird. Im letzten Blog ist ein Bild eines moeglichen Modells. Es gibt sie jedoch in vielen Arten. Warum der Rock zwischen den Beinen durchgewickelt wird koennte viele Hintergruende haben. Vielleicht um im Winter vor Kaelte zu schuetzen oder um zu vermeiden dass Fliegen unter den Rock kommen oder einfach damit der kleine Freund nicht ueberraschend herausschaut. Ich habe waehrend meiner Fahrt einige dieser Freunde freundlich herauswedeln sehen.

On my way through India I drove over hundreds of breakers. You know, it is this kind of little wall on the road to reduce the speed of the traffic. There are breakers everywhere: in front of rail crossings, in front of government and other important buildings, in front of school, at the entrance of villages …. And they exist in these forms: only one wide and flat one, three narrow but high ones in a row, only one narrow but high one or five narrow little ones. All the time I was angry about them because you don’t see them. They are undercover until you drive over them. Then they suddenly appear. Not only once they scratched the bottom of my bike. Then today something happened which gave me hope for a smoother crossing of the breakers in future. Maybe it is the beginning of something: two times today I came across a sign which said “be careful, breakers!”.

Auf meinem Weg durch Indien habe ich einige kuenstliche Strassenwellen ueberqueren muessen. Diese Welllen die man bei uns auch in Wohngegenden verwendet hat um die Geschwindigkeit der Fahrzeuge zu reduzieren. In Indien sind sie ueberall: Vor Bahnuebergaengen, vor Regierungs- oder anderen wichtigen Gebaeuden, vor Schulen, an Dorfeingaengen ... und es gibt sie in allen moeglichen Formen: ein breiter flacher Huegel, drei nahe beieinander liegenden hohe Wellen, eine einzelne schmale hohe Welle order fuenf nahe beienanderliegende kleine Wellen. ES hat mich jedesmal aufgeregt denn man konnte sie vorher nicht sehen. Sie sind schwarz und unsichtbarbis du ueber sie rumpelst. Sie tauchen aus dem Nichts auf. Nicht nur einmal hoerte ich das kratzende Geraeusch wenn sie sich von unten in mein Bike frassen. Heute dann passierte etwas was mir Hoffnung machte, dass es in Zukunft einfacher sein wird diese Wellen zu ueberqueren. Vielleicht ist es der Start einer grossartigen Aktion in Indien: Heute war vor zwei solcher Bodenwellen ein Warnschild das die Dinger ankuendigte. ...

pokhara - buthwal - gorakhpur - varanasi


The last views back to the snowy mountains.




Sunset shortly before Buthwal. Driving at night on that road is very danger and difficult but also beautiful.


Modern harvest


Modern harvest


Modern art? Modern energy?


Modern “meadows” in Varanasi. The color what you see are not flowers…


Washing cloth in the holy Ganga. It is a hard handwork to wash jeans.


View on the Ghat


Thinking about the sense of life


Bathing the buffalos


Latest fashion for goats


Latest fashion for men.


…and what to wear below … pay attention to the color shading… ;-)


Today is special day. Thousands of women wander from the outlaying villages to the temple in Varanasi. After praying they go to the Ganga for bath and puja.

26 November 2009

life in jaipate (2) - tihar



this is how the children of my host famlily described the festifal of tihar before the festival to me:

Tihar is a one of the highest Hindu Festivals in Nepal. The schools and offices are closed for three days to give the possibilities for families to celebrate together. Everybody is in a happy mood. During Tihar women, who usually live at the family of their husband, return home to visit their parents. During the festival a lot of good food will be provided. In the family where I live during this year’s festival the bee house is opened and we get fresh honey. This is one of the most delicious things I have ever tasted! Besides a lot of fried bread is prepared.

fresh honey

frying bread


The first day is day of the crow. The second day is day of the dog. The third day is day of Laxmi. These are still official working days.
The fourth day is first day of holiday. It is day of the cow. There is a Puja hold in the cow house. The cows receive Tikka and bread. We put a flower neglect around their head. On this day the children wander around the village and visit all houses. They sing Bhaili and Dausuri. They play the drum and dance. For this they receive money and rice. On the fifth day is Bhai-Tikka. That means Brother Tikka. The sisters give Tikka to their brothers in seven colors. The sisters brake the Okhar (Walnut) and the brothers eat the Okhar. The Okhar is a symbol for the rivals of the brother. The sister breaks the Okhar and the brother will not have any rivals. Next the sisters give good food to the brothers. In return the brother gives money to the sister. Additionally the sister gives some cloth as gift to the brother. Only after this ceremony the whole family eats the first food of the day. On this day usually for dinner some meat will be prepared. Thanks to Sabita, Birat, Susmita and Niraj for the english description!

And this is how I experienced Tihar:
if you look for anything similar in western culture "christmas" probably fits best. Days before Tihar the children are all getting excited about it. They are looking forward to meet with relatives who usually live away from the family. They are looking forward all the delicious food. They are looking forward the excitement of some traditional ceremonies who are only done once a year. the hose is beiong cleaned and cloth is washed.
the first day of tihar is the day of the crow. food is served to the crows on plates made out of leaves.
the second day is day of the dog. on this day the dogs get a red tikka and a flower girland (mala)around his neck. even stray dogs receive food on the leave plates.
the third day is day of the cow. a puja is hold in the cow house. the cow gets a mala and tikka and rice to eat. another big flower garland is assembled on the roof of the cow house. in the evening there is another puja and Laxmi (the god of wealth) is worshiped. a lot of butter lights are placed all around the house. the yard is cleaned and one part of it is "painted" with red mud. another part is "painted" with cow dung.

cow dung on the floor

in hindi religion the cow is holy and the dung and the urin can prevent sickness. this part of the yard is considered to be very clean and everybody is walking barfeet on it.it is only me with my (remaining) western idea of hygiene that doesn't want to do this considering that after this the feet will come into my sleeping back.

cow tikka
On the fourth day children are performing the “Bhaili” and “dausuri” where they wander around the village and sing and dance. They do this in groups of friends and the money and rice is shared in the end. The women are baking different kind of bread. Also the flower garlands (mala) and the leave plates are assembled by the female members of the family.

natural plates


doing some malas for the brother-tikka


one kind of bread


some more bread

The last and for the children most important day is Bai-Tikka. In the morning nobody is allowed to eat. A goat is slaughtered and will be cooked for lunch and dinner.

the lunch is being prepared

Everybody takes shower, washes hair, combs and dresses in best cloth. Slowly the brothers arrive. This are not only “real brothers” but also cousins and other relatives. The words brother or sister have different meaning in Nepal. Carpets are placed in the yard under the shadow of a tree. The brothers sit down. The sisters place the plates with 7 different colors in front of them.


the seven colors for the bhai-thikka

A little puja is hold and then the girls give the Tikka to the brothers. After the Tikka they hang a mala around their neck and hand over the handkerchief.

preparing the ceremony


dessert

Then the grandmother starts distributing the food on plates. The sisters serve it to the brothers. Besides the normal rice and vegetable there is also the mutton curry and a dessert in form of fruits and sweets. In the end the walnut is served. The women are not yet allowed to eat. They have to go to their family and do the Tikka ceremony there. Only then they also can eat. The whole afternoon the brothers and sisters and the whole family is sitting together. They are chatting and playing cards. They are enjoying fine snacks and tea. In the evening the brothers pay a little money to the sisters to thank them for everything. So I hope after one month I could recall everything correctly. As I said, that is how I experienced Tihar and it can vary from region to region depending on the religious background.


brothers and sisters