life in jaipate (2) - tihar

this is how the children of my host famlily described the festifal of tihar before the festival to me:

Tihar is a one of the highest Hindu Festivals in Nepal. The schools and offices are closed for three days to give the possibilities for families to celebrate together. Everybody is in a happy mood. During Tihar women, who usually live at the family of their husband, return home to visit their parents. During the festival a lot of good food will be provided. In the family where I live during this year’s festival the bee house is opened and we get fresh honey. This is one of the most delicious things I have ever tasted! Besides a lot of fried bread is prepared.

fresh honey

frying bread


The first day is day of the crow. The second day is day of the dog. The third day is day of Laxmi. These are still official working days.
The fourth day is first day of holiday. It is day of the cow. There is a Puja hold in the cow house. The cows receive Tikka and bread. We put a flower neglect around their head. On this day the children wander around the village and visit all houses. They sing Bhaili and Dausuri. They play the drum and dance. For this they receive money and rice. On the fifth day is Bhai-Tikka. That means Brother Tikka. The sisters give Tikka to their brothers in seven colors. The sisters brake the Okhar (Walnut) and the brothers eat the Okhar. The Okhar is a symbol for the rivals of the brother. The sister breaks the Okhar and the brother will not have any rivals. Next the sisters give good food to the brothers. In return the brother gives money to the sister. Additionally the sister gives some cloth as gift to the brother. Only after this ceremony the whole family eats the first food of the day. On this day usually for dinner some meat will be prepared. Thanks to Sabita, Birat, Susmita and Niraj for the english description!

And this is how I experienced Tihar:
if you look for anything similar in western culture "christmas" probably fits best. Days before Tihar the children are all getting excited about it. They are looking forward to meet with relatives who usually live away from the family. They are looking forward all the delicious food. They are looking forward the excitement of some traditional ceremonies who are only done once a year. the hose is beiong cleaned and cloth is washed.
the first day of tihar is the day of the crow. food is served to the crows on plates made out of leaves.
the second day is day of the dog. on this day the dogs get a red tikka and a flower girland (mala)around his neck. even stray dogs receive food on the leave plates.
the third day is day of the cow. a puja is hold in the cow house. the cow gets a mala and tikka and rice to eat. another big flower garland is assembled on the roof of the cow house. in the evening there is another puja and Laxmi (the god of wealth) is worshiped. a lot of butter lights are placed all around the house. the yard is cleaned and one part of it is "painted" with red mud. another part is "painted" with cow dung.

cow dung on the floor

in hindi religion the cow is holy and the dung and the urin can prevent sickness. this part of the yard is considered to be very clean and everybody is walking barfeet on it.it is only me with my (remaining) western idea of hygiene that doesn't want to do this considering that after this the feet will come into my sleeping back.

cow tikka
On the fourth day children are performing the “Bhaili” and “dausuri” where they wander around the village and sing and dance. They do this in groups of friends and the money and rice is shared in the end. The women are baking different kind of bread. Also the flower garlands (mala) and the leave plates are assembled by the female members of the family.

natural plates


doing some malas for the brother-tikka


one kind of bread


some more bread

The last and for the children most important day is Bai-Tikka. In the morning nobody is allowed to eat. A goat is slaughtered and will be cooked for lunch and dinner.

the lunch is being prepared

Everybody takes shower, washes hair, combs and dresses in best cloth. Slowly the brothers arrive. This are not only “real brothers” but also cousins and other relatives. The words brother or sister have different meaning in Nepal. Carpets are placed in the yard under the shadow of a tree. The brothers sit down. The sisters place the plates with 7 different colors in front of them.


the seven colors for the bhai-thikka

A little puja is hold and then the girls give the Tikka to the brothers. After the Tikka they hang a mala around their neck and hand over the handkerchief.

preparing the ceremony


dessert

Then the grandmother starts distributing the food on plates. The sisters serve it to the brothers. Besides the normal rice and vegetable there is also the mutton curry and a dessert in form of fruits and sweets. In the end the walnut is served. The women are not yet allowed to eat. They have to go to their family and do the Tikka ceremony there. Only then they also can eat. The whole afternoon the brothers and sisters and the whole family is sitting together. They are chatting and playing cards. They are enjoying fine snacks and tea. In the evening the brothers pay a little money to the sisters to thank them for everything. So I hope after one month I could recall everything correctly. As I said, that is how I experienced Tihar and it can vary from region to region depending on the religious background.


brothers and sisters